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Lorient
Lorient, Brittany's fourth-largest city, lies on an immense natural harbour protected from the ocean by the Île de Groix and strategically located at the junction of the rivers Scorff, Ter and Blavet. A functional, rather depressing port today, it was once a key base for French and English colonialism, and was founded in the mid-seventeenth century for trading operations by the Compagnie des Indes, an equivalent of the Dutch and English East India Companies. Apart from the name, little else remains to suggest the plundered wealth that once arrived here. During the last war, Lorient was a major target for the Allies; the Germans held out until May 1945, by which time the city was almost completely destroyed. The only substantial remains were the U-boat pens - subsequently greatly expanded by the French for their nuclear submarines.
Across the estuary in Port-Louis is the Musée de la Compagnie des Indes , a pretty dismal temple to imperialism (Jan-March, Oct & Nov daily except Tues 2-6pm; April & May daily except Tues 10am-6.30pm; June-Sept daily 10am-6.30pm; closed Dec; 30F/?4.57). Time would be more enjoyably spent on a boat trip, either up the estuary towards Hennebont or out to the Île de Groix . This 8km-long steep-sided rock is a somewhat smaller version of Belle-Île , and holds some gorgeous beaches to encourage day-trippers.
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